The Grass is Always Greener…

The Grass is Always Green…After it Rains:)

Paradise?

Winter in Porto Martins means a lot of wind, a lot of rain, and a lot of mowing the grass. It’s cool, I love cutting grass, and that’s a good thing. I usually get up before the sun, get some work done on the computer, then when the warden gets up, we have breakfast, watch the news from the states, look out the windows, and plan our day.

Little did I realize that my day includes mowing that beautiful green grass at least once a week! Nearly every day this week, I’ve woken to beautiful sunny days, and by the time we’re working on lunch, it’s raining, visibility is down to about 2 kilometers, and we’re feeling sorry for the birds, the cows, and the neighborhood cats…all outside in the rain.

I am reminded of my first year in Germany where the weather statistically was worse than Pittsburgh, then the worst flying weather in the U.S. Everyone said “You have to live with rain and snow.” I did. My parents would always remind us kids that our native Michigan tribes learned to live with nature — and rain and snow are natural. So I’m not having much trouble adapting to the weather in the Acores…just mowing the grass all the time:)

So if anyone asks me what I’m doing with my retirement, I can honestly say I’m spending much of it with nature; walking the beaches, hiking in the mountains, and of course, cutting the grass.

Important Safety Tip…when you wake to a cruise ship in the harbor, DON’T plan on visiting the market in Praia da Vitoria!

So we woke this morning to a visit from the Ventura Cruise Ship docked in the port just below our place. It dwarfs the usual container ships and regional cruise ships. This one is out of England, has been at sea for a month, and is on their way home.

So the moral of this story is “Pay attention to your surroundings and use your head!” She says “let’s go down and visit the Electric Company’s office, get our account for the new house changed, and pick up some bread from Luis at the city Market. (Luis has known Sofia her whole life and treats us like family when we stop). So we zip downtown, split a café and sanduíche mista (ham and cheese on fresh bread) and then drive over to main street to visit the market.

Ship in the harbor…main street…didn’t put those two things together. Buses everywhere, cops giving parking tickets, literally hundreds of Brits taking photos of everything, hitting all the tourist shops, carriage tours, island tours, wine sales, little Azores souvenir stands … you name it. So I drop the missus (the cop understood me when I explained we weren’t stopping) and then circled the block…no small task on one-way cobblestone streets. But I did manage to find my bride coming back out of the market with fresh bread and fresh bananas and get her back into the truck — all without losing too much of my patience:)

So I need to heed my own advice…when you’re retired and not in a genuine rush to make an appointment, deadline or get to work…pay attention to your environment. A huge ship brings tourists…they help all our neighbor’s with livelihood and they help spread the word about how wonderful our island is. They also come ashore quickly and go everywhere. So give them a wide berth on days when the ships are in. And help them enjoy as well:)

Homesick – but surrounded by supportive friends and family

Moshe and Urso (the bear) on a cake to celebrate a third birthday.

So today, after a great day shooting with friends in the rifle range in the old volcano crater in Monte Brasil, we were invited to help the warden’s wonderful niece celebrate her daughter’s third birthday. Friends and family gathered, ate (a lot), and sang happy birthday.

Then we sat around and reminisced about many things, including the family’s visit to America for Christmas many winters ago in Michigan- and especially the shovelling snow, frozen lakes, and tobogganing.

Everyone laughed a lot (the Christmas visit to the states was the first and last time most of these folks had seen snow; the tales of shovelling, Christmas traditions, blizzards, and very very cold weather brought gasps of disbelief and reassurances – and laughter.

Surrounded by my “Portuguese Support Group” was comforting, but also made me very homesick. Born and raised in the snows of Michigan, Wisconsin and Minnesota, here they complain of cold when the rain brings clouds down from the nearby mountain peaks. For me, “cold” brings fond memories of a youth in minus-65 degree (f) weather on the banks of the Rat Root River with a wood stove and an outhouse.

Tonight emphasised a valuable coping skill I strongly recommend… Remember everything is relative, and you can’t step in the same river twice! Your life has changed, and you need to smile and remember your choices, value friends and family who can help you adjust, and enjoy tomorrow. Remembering the past is healthy (until you can no longer remember it:) – I dread that day) but when you move or retire, value tomorrow and the people who you are with now!

Here’s the biggest reason why…

Many friends and acquaintances usually immediately ask why we’re leaving the U.S. behind for a tiny island where my wife was born and raised. We both miss being able to “run down the street” in northern Virginia to buy something, walk among national landmarks, and have a tough time deciding what type of food we want for dinner.

Today, as we’re dashing out for a loaf of fresh bread through the pouring rain and strong winds, we stopped to drop off some bread for the neighbor and ask if she needed us to pick up anything while we’re out. My wife made an observation that perfectly answer the question most ask:

Here’s why we’re here now:

“When we left the island for the United States more than 25 years ago, if someone would have said to me that in 26 years, I’d be living across the street from my sister and next door to my best friend from middle school in a new home with a fantastic view, I would have said you’re crazy.”

Then she smiled:)

That smile is why we’re here now!

Whatever you do, embrace the differences

Seven minutes ago, I turned a year older. Not at all what I expected when I was younger, not even what I expected ten years ago. But here I am, and believe me, there are many differences. If you’re not willing to adapt, to embrace those changes, I expect you will not be happy…in retirement…in a new land…with new new traditions and expectations.

Some of the changes are noticeable. Yesterday in my home of Michigan the temperatures were record-setting minus 25 and snow. I miss that a lot. Yesterday temperatures in my back yard were 60 degrees, the sun was out, and I was helping cook fish and clean house (not my favorite, but hell, I can survive anything:)) Today I helped a good friend (the best man at my last wedding) celebrate his birthday by climbing a mountain…and he’s older than I am. We had a wonderful time.

Some changes are more subtle. They sing “Happy Birthday” differently. They have major traffic problems (10 cars waiting to yield in a traffic circle) and we’re never sure if Paderia Juncal will have fresh buns or not after lunch. (They did today, and very few things in life are better than buns just out of the oven, buttered, with Sao Jorge cheese)!

As I age, flexibility is less my forté (so I’m told:)) But I am slowly – and sometimes painfully- learning to embrace differences. According to Darwin, if I don’t, I won’t survive. So I shall. Happy Birthday to me, or Feliz Aniversario and Muitos Parabems. The words to the song might be different, but the thought is still the same!

A warm fire in the wind and rain…

All four seasons in every day…that’s what residents say…

Winter time on Terceira is always challenging. Last week high winds (can’t tell you how high, still working on getting my weather observation system up and running…the company’s web site is not authorized for viewing in Europe yet). Some mornings clouds hang low over the mountain behind us, so low we can’t see the wind turbines. Hours later the sun shines down on Praia and the white buildings look like jewels against the blue waters of the bay. Sometimes we walk along the beautiful new boardwalk along the bay’s shoreline, and the water is smooth as glass, or surfers are out playing in the Sea State 3 and 4 conditions. Still, the daily temps are around 16 °C (about 60° F) during the day and chilly when sun sets. The decision to build in a wood stove was smart…not cold without it (vis à vis Michigan and Minnesota) but pleasant, comfortable, and romantic. Plus splitting and carrying wood makes me feel useful.

Walking for your health…and pure joy!

The waterfront in Porto Martins, Terceira on a fall day. The “mountain” is Capitao (Captain’s Mountain) and is the view from our front door, directly behind the mountain in this view. If you have to take a pleasant healthy walk every day, this is a perfect place to do it!

Even on bad weather days on Terceira, there is something about a long, leisurely walk holding your wife’s hand that is amazing. A few short . kilometers down the hill from our Casa da Sonho, we’re in Porto Martins, one of the most revered natural swimming pools on the island. Waves crashing (but not too much – this isn’t the north side of the island) and wind whipping. Warm sun, and each house you pass or person you meet says Boa Dia, we wave, catch up on jobs, children, honey-do projects….this is the life!

Mom lied…there is no justice!!!

Talk about unfair…after we make the break for the island life in the Azores, all of my friends in D.C. get a Christmas vacation as the government closes down yet again…and I have to work harder than ever. Still assembling furniture,putting up our Container Store closet (it looks great, BTW) and of course, hanging holly, curtains, wreaths, lights, etc. Just not fair!!!

The good news is that this Christmas season is so wonderful for Sofia. Sisters gathered in the kitchen with daughters, nieces, and neighbors creating “out-of-this-world” aromas, and of course sharing some of the local cuisine, wines, songs, and memories of Christmases past…I love hearing her laugh.

So I’m still not enjoying dependable Internet (next install dates comes up late December, and hoping for the best). Meantime, I don’t post much, but rest assured, all ye who visit, our wishes are with you for a wonderful season, and prayers for health, prosperity, and a return to work soon for my government brethern (and sisters:))

Anxious – First Daughter Coming to Visit

Several years of work, packing, unpacking, camping in apartments and a brand new house with no furnishings, unpacking furnishing, painting, planting…all coming to a head tomorrow when one daughter arrives to see our new domicile. We’ve unpacked everything, put up curtains, planted grass, washed the driveway and truck, everything we can think of to her that we’re home and we want her and her sister to feel at home here also…forever. So the planner in me goes over the list again…clean sheets, favorite drinks, mom’s got the favorite menu ready…let’s hope she feels comfortable. And of course, part of me is also watching faces, listening to voices, planning on what we can do to better prepare for the next daughter’s visit:)

Thanksgiving…an American tradition which surpasses borders

We enjoyed a wonderful traditional meal with our new friends in a foreign land. Just as Pilgrims and natives sat and broke bread (allegedly), we visited with friends, drank local wine, feasted  on turkey, potatoes and sweet potatoes, and passed hours with local residents, residents of distant lands, discussed freedom, the American dream, adjusting to challenges in local conditions (methinks the Pilgrims didn’t complain about various government bureaucracies) and reminisced about previous holidays. All in all, no football, no parades, but wonderful memories. Thanks to all friends and best wished, old friends and new.

No photos for this one…none could portray the warmth around the table:)

Halloween on Terceira

Last day of October, daughters are in the states making final adjustments to their costumes and party plans, and there is some Trick or Treat activity on the streets of Praia. Actually more emphasis on the holiday on November 1, which is a Portuguese kind of combination of Thanksgiving and Memorial Day. It’s called Dia do Pao Por Deus…The  Day of Bread for God.

So on a sunny Halloween morning, Rick and Sofia head for the beach, run, and go swimming before we start. The water was wonderful, the sun warming, and we got to meet up with several great friends!

Halloween 2018
Not at all chilly….yet:)

Sometimes the Rat Race is too much or one rat

Last week has been full of ups and downs: ups. the house is finished, the government paperwork is finished, and now it’s in the bank’s hands. The downs, still NO news on our container which got held up on mainland during a port strike and now has to find a new way to the island. Platinum Movers has assured us they are working on it, but still no container. Residency, citizenship, or in any other words, any program for Rick to stay longer than 90 days is on bureaucratic hold…my FBI check is older than 180 days and has to be redone…with fingerprints, of course. But we’ve been working every day on the house, specifically the weeds and rocks in the yard…so I expect my fingerprints are in Portugal and the FBI is still in the U.S. We’ll see, but we’ll have a great looking yard:)

Meanwhile, my multi-talented wife foiled at least one bureaucratic obstacle…we were told I had to present an authenticated birth certificate from Michigan (we got it after $95) and then my darling bride remember I had to present one to the same government 26 years ago for a wedding license…one phone call and that was solved. She is SOOOO smart:) Sadly, after our short glee, she made me go back to removing weeds and rocks…..no justice:)

Windy day at the Beach below Sonho da Praia

After a few days of chilly rain and high winds (interesting timing, a hurricane passed 200 miles south of here as Hurricane Michael hit Virginia) a regatta of small sail boats from several islands met here for races while we were swimming at the beach.  Peaceful, serene, and beautiful. Guess I”ll have to take up sailing:)

Praia Regatta 2018
Multi-island regatta in the bay below the house today.

Balance – The Impatient Person’s Guide to Life After the Rat Race

We all know life has it’s “ups” and “downs.” For those of you who don’t know me, patience is NOT my forte. But as I’ve left The Rat Race behind, I find I have more time to contemplate life — as fewer people are counting on me to accomplish things in timelines controlled by yet others. With  very few exceptions (the wife, the warden, etc.) I control my timelines, deadlines, and that makes Life After The Rat Race more tolerable.

Today an apt illustration revealed itself to me — balance is everything.

Today our side of Terceira started with a windy, cold, rainy day. I say “our side” because, as I have known for years here, the south side of the island can be perfectly sunny and warm while the east side (where I’m writing this) is windy and downright chilly. I awoke to a “yucky day.”

We spent the day running errands, getting to know the new roads, traffic laws, vehicle, etc. and then we drove to the Serra Do Cume, a high mountain above our place. Wet cobblestones and ancient potholes made me really appreciate the new truck, and the high mountain road (singular, there is only one) looking out over green fields hedged by stone walls and cows and burros grazing was tranquil. Peaceful. Idyllic. (Forgive my style, Vince….:) and I thought “this is what life is like after The Rat Race. The warden (wonderful wife) sitting next to me agreed:)

Then it hit me. No, not lightening. Not a falling rock. The realization that I needed balance. The sun poked through and a rainbow arched out of the sky. We actually saw several on our drive. We’ve seen many rainbows in our lives, personally I’ve enjoyed rainbows on nearly every continent in nearly every environment. But this wasn’t just “a rainbow,” this was an enchanting rainbow.  This rainbow I could reach out and touch. This rainbow was a perfect arch, with a perfect spectrum of colors, and perfect density, right outside my windshield. I didn’t even pull over to take a photo or video…none would do it justice. Digits can’t capture the magic of this rainbow. This rainbow brought a feeling of grace.

The balance I realized is that rainy wet weather, high winds, cobblestone mountain roads with one lane and potholes, are sometimes not very inviting, but the same crummy weather brings rainbows.

Life after The Rat Race is gratifying. You get some things and you lose some things. But to balance the gains and losses takes time, patience, and introspection. When you think about what you left behind, remember, one of the things you have gained is the time to think about what you left behind…and time is truly one of the gifts we have to cherish!

Bullfights – Azorean pastime and a great way to meet folks and learn the culture…and drink

We’ve been here about a month now, and we’ve gone to about a dozen street fights with friends and family. Every village has at least one a year, and many have more. They stop traffic, turn a bull out with a rope on it for about 20 minutes, put it away, drink for 15 minutes, and then get out another one of four bulls.

We were invited to watch from a friend’s house this week, and happened to be next tot eh video camera. Run this one up to about 45 minutes, and you’ll see Sofia and I. It’s a riot to watch the bull, the crowd, and hear the stories. Had a lot of fun.

Check out this video 45 minutes into to it.

Posted by Sonho da Praia on Sunday, October 7, 2018

 

A major lesson in Portuguese

Every language has nuances; I’ve lived in many countries and have learned this the hard way. I speak (or can survive) in several. After 25-plus years of marriage and annual visits to Terceira in the Portuguese Azores, you’d think I’d have a better handle on the lingo…so today shouldn’t have been a surprise. To Wit:

  1. When the wife says the new house needs cleaning, I should expect some assignments. I was slightly surprised (and downright happy) when she said “You can work on your tan and the water is great.” No, in Portuguese, that means “The new hose for cleaning the sidewalks at the house has warm water, and you can take your shirt off and get sun while you’re cleaning windows and scrubbing the aluminum window tracks.”
  2. My old Leatherman tool has been in the family for years. It has taken stitches out of legs in the Sahara, cleaned untold game animals when needed, fixed motorcycles, cars, dorm furniture, office furniture, etc.  So when it was shipped by mistake, I reluctantly picked up a newer, more versatile Leatherman with 19 tools on it. 19 tools! You get the idea. So imagine my surprise and pride when she asked if she could borrow my new Leatherman…finally, years of lectures and patient education have paid off! After her initial discovery that it was sharp (doh) she put a band aid on her thumb and handed me the tool. “Go around the house, there are little patches of glue on the tile floor, and this will scrape it off.”  Nineteen tools with which I can rebuild a motorcycle, and I use the large knife to clean the floor?
  3. The island also has it’s own vision test. When I’m driving my father-in-laws truck, I usually can see the trucks or donkey carts coming out of the right had lane on a circle…and slow down to get by. I thought this showed I had good vision. WRONG! The real test is when the wife comes around every inch of the 1900-square-foot (665 square meter) house with a tile floor and stone window and door ledges and says “You missed that blue paint spot here” and “Can’t you see that glue drip…from now on, after you’ve scraped it, run your fingers over the floor to see if you got it all.” So how is it that she can see a drop of paint and totally miss that I just spilled oil  all over my jacket?

So if you’re adjusting to a foreign culture, you need either a lot of patience, a very understanding wife/warden/supervisor, or you need a lot to drink!!! Guess which one I recommend:)

Just remember you heard it  from me first:)  And good news, tomorrow I get to clean under the new refrigerator! Moving to a new land is not challenging, you’ll still end up cleaning under the refrigerator..as if every house guest looks there first!

Paradise Lost?winter” will come…

We got here just in time…to our Island Paradise. The weather has been very pleasant for some weeks, and now “fall and winter” will come, which I love. High winds whistle around our new place, with Sea States reaching much higher numbers, wind surfers, surfers, and much less “traffic” on the beach. While not optimal for the tourist industry, I have always loved the winds and the high seas and rain. Bumper just sleeps through it:) I have always been taught to enjoy whatever weather you get; and in Terceira, I love the bad weather as well as the good – my father would say Bad and good are relative and judgmental…it is what it is:)

Praia Beach with our house in the background…see it in the rain?

Fall in the Azores…a glimpse of the future weather

Today is our first day not at the beach. Rain, Thunder, and Lightening, and some wind, not much. I love it, Bumper is under the bed every time the thunder comes:)  Chicken Cat!

So I’m researching more about learning WordPress, some more on my new Youtube channel (LATRR) and help with cleaning and washing. Got a bunch of curtains washed, and hung out to dry. It’s raining:) Other than that, just a few more appointments this afternoon and watch some movies.

No bull–actually four Bulls and Thousands of Neighbors

Picturesque village of Porto Martins, just down the hill from our new house, had a Bull Fight the other day. It Takes A Village…to have a great bullfight, great weather, warm ocean breeze, courageous young fools trying to outmaneuver a young bull, very large quantities of beer, lots of great conversation…just plain fun. For centuries, each village raises their money, hires four bulls (selecting the most entertaining ones is a special event in the mountains days before) and then everyone gathers for a few hours. As one new friend on the beach warned me the day before…be most careful of the fifth bull!” I didn’t know there were five….no, the doctor explained, the fifth bull is the invitation to dinner and drinking with all of the great food, delicacies, and of course wine, beer and Aguar Dente (homemade moonshine). Since you know I always listen to the doctor, I had to try out a little of everything. My favorite is a clear liquid diet…aguar dente:)

The entire village of Porto Martins (and many others) turn out for good times and watching daredevils try to outmaneuver the bulls

Alles is Gut nach Terceira

Got to spend some time with the builders, punched out some minor changes, and learned that we have passed all inspections and now must begin the bureaucratic challenges. But here’s a photo or two…we love the house!

The View: