Finally, after many years of talk shows, speeches, ads, debates, etc., November 4th, 2024 dawns on our little place, apparently a microcosm of our United States … a pronounced line across our green, very wet fields in the distance. Sun, clouds, and eventually rain and strong winds are in the forecast.
We voted absentee by mail, and we have plans to join good friends at lunch tomorrow to discuss whatever results are in, just to help everyone here adjust to this day of reckoning which has encompassed American, Portuguese, German, Norwegian, and Mexican residents here for more than a year. To the best of our knowledge, everyone of has opinions, desired results, and mostly a firm commitment to compromise for our beloved nation.
So as the trees are now starting to whip outside the windows, rain moves across the hills and fields, and the white-capped waves in the bay, we open a bottle of Vinho Tinto and enjoy Sofia’s fantastic fresh Chicken Noodle Soup!
Despite gray weather, we visited the top of the church where we were married and viewed our house, Casa da Sonho) just to the right of the hill in the background.
One of the most intriguing aspects of the view out our kitchen windows is that of Praia da Vitoria and Matriz da Praia where we were married more than 30 years ago. Our good friend is the caretaker there and escorted us to the belltower for a view of the town and our new home just to the right of the mountain in the distance.
The church was built in 1514 and has seen seveal wars, growth spurts, hurricanes, storms, and earthquakes. Yet it remains on of the most beautiful reglisions structures I know in Europe.
In these hallowed halls Sofia and her sisters were baptized, confirmed, married, and many family members consecrated. The preist who married us, Padre Candido, was a great family freind and we visit hsi grave whenever we visit others in the family.
I’m not terribly religous, but I do love visiting Matriz da Praia every now and again, just to provide a little stability in our turbulent world!
This has nothing to do with living abroad, just a great memory of good times and long hours earning the funds to retire and live abroad. Believe it or not, after plowing for several record-snowfall years, we love the Azores but do miss the snowfall….and the long hours:)
Living abroad. Ex-patriot. Resident alien. Foreigner. All terms which lead to a form of “identity Crisis.” But these are all names that my friends and family call me. (They do call me other things as well…but let’s stay on message!). As with most things I’m called (never “Late for Dinner”) I heed them very little. Except that they all add to the realization that I’m distant from my family and friends where I grew up… or as most of my family and friends readily acknowledge, where I got older; I’m still working on growing up:)
Case in point. On my periodic “welfare check” phone call to my sister, all calls went to voicemail. Naturally, the first couple of times I assumed she lost her phone again, so no big deal. After several tries, I called her husband’s cell phone to hear she was laying the in hospital. Disturbing. I talked to her. “Maybe a stroke, we’re not sure yet. I’ll call you back.”
She is definitely getting up in the years, unlike me. (See above, not grown up yet). So I worry. But then I also recollect lately a lot about when we were young. To this very day, I remember driving to visit Grandma Crall et al, my most secure place was napping with my head on my big sister’s lap. No matter where I have been in the world, with guns and bombs going off around me, laying in a hospital after being slashed by a knife, injured when roping from a helicopter, no matter….safest place was in that old Oldsmobile with my head in her lap. And now she’s having strokes? What up with that. She’s getting older!
So as an “ex-pat” i check my communication options. Am I too hard to get a hold of? (Yes, Vince, I know it’s not good grammar:)) For both business and convenience, I maintain a US telephone number (I recommend Ring Central, not cheap, but very very effective!) so everyone can dial me like I was in the states. I maintain it on a VPN (expressVPN) to keep things direct, secure, and give me control of when and where I can communicate for business and pleasure. So, In My Humble Opinion, it’s not an obstacle about global communication.
Lack of notification for an illness (serious or not) may be just a function of the old adage “Out of Sight, Out of Mind.” Admittedly, whenever I’ve been involved in some injury or illness emergency, notification was for immediate proximity, then later worry about distant family notifications and such. So I understand
Windmills, whaling museums, amazing scenery, new family and more freinds…a long weekend visit to Pico and Horta Islands was amazing. Great times, amazing scenery, Portugal’s tallest mountain (and inactive volcano) and some fantastic aguardente…and Obrigado for driving, Rui:)Family from Virginia, Michigan, and Terceira all gathered for a wonderful luncheon, just one of many this summer. A good time was had by all, and , of course, too much food was had by all:)
Long time sice I wrote here, mostly because: a) a computer crash during a massive electrical storm fried my MAC computers, and b) No time and too many things happening…I always heard retirement was supposed to be relaxing. Not this summer. From a visit to Michigan and Virginia, several visits to hosptals and doctors (all better now) and great times with old friends. Then some time showing folks from Florida, Texas, and California around here. (Sorry Jane and John, wish the weather would have cooperated better, but you did miss last night’s 55-knot wind storm).
Rough summer for tecnhology here also. Electric storms crashed the UPS I had all my MAC computers plugged into. My Favorite Cannon DSLR lost some controls, my printer died, and it took nearly three months to get a new MAC Studio in, and I’m still trying to get it integrated into the network. Even Alexa seems to be “Having a little trouble.” But life goes on.
Interspersed with visitors, beach time, and bullfights, we spent hours with friends swimming, watching movies, playing games, and of course, eating lots and drinking more…it was a great summer.
Now we’re getting braced for another winter here, marked by high winds, rain storms, massive ocean waves, and of course, chilly (read 45 degrees Farhenheit) on a cool night. Laying in firewood, cleaning the wood stove, and noting the neighborhood cats’ fur growing longer. Since weather patterns around the world are so unpredictable, we’re not sure what to expect, but then again, who cares. We’re buttoned up in a wonderful place with great family and friends, games, great wine, and a fire in the stove.
Bless this house O Lord We Pray; Make it safe by night and day. – The first prayer we were taught as children…that was a long time ago! So the priest blessed this house…
Blessed…the house, the neighbors, the food for the table…our neighbors and a priest from Biscoitos dined and blessed our new home; the food was excellent, but some of these local recipes are challenging for my midwestern upbringing:)
Bacalhau (Cod Fish) is a dietary staple here, as well as feijãos (similar to baked beans – why am I thinking of Blazing Saddles and grinning?) and although they take a lot of work, my wife makes them so well. So when the priest and the neighbors are coming over, you pull out all the stops. So, of course, I help!
Some of the “help” is easy, pour a glass of Vinho Tinto (red wine) and chop the garlic, onions, carrots, etc. Today, I got promoted to some of the more challenging (aka Yechhy) aspects…de-bone the bacalhau. Well, there is more training involved, more messy hands, and a much more sophisticated appreciation for the anatomy of a cod fish. Yeah, I’m not at the semi-pro level on that bacalhau yet…but I”ll get better, and there is always more vinho!
The way bacalhau is sold here makes it at least less challenging that Filetes do Abrotiea (Battered friend Hake) which tastes fantastic but someone has to gut and clean the fish…I’m not that good yet. The bacalhau here is sold in dried, salted sheets like it has been preserved for hundreds of years. The sheets are so big and so hard that if you’re buying a part of a fish, they use a pneumatic blade to copy it up. Then you soak it for days, changing the water each day, then you boil it forever, then you cool it, pull the bones out, and shred it. For my favorite dish, Bacalhau da Nadish, you then mix it with sliced potatoes, onions, garlic, and bake it for a while. Personally I love it so much we served it at our wedding reception 27 years ago. I’ve loved it ever since.
Of course, then, and up to today, I never had to do the bones and such…but I love it anyway. It’s part of the culture here, it’s part of he cuisine here, and it’s part of our simple, wonderful life here. I’ve found a few dishes that I always appreciate, no matter how or where they are made. Squid, not yet so much, lapish, definitely not on my “faves” list, but bacalhau da Nadish, always a safe order and way to fit in with our neighbors…I just now appreciate it even more because I know how many of them little bones Cod have. I still don’t know where they are, but I’m learning. And of course…there’s always more wine!
Fabien Cousteau, a famous aquanaut and ocean conservatonist, came to Terceira for this years Global Exploration Summit to discuss his role in conceptualizing, designing, and funding a major underwater research facility similar to the International Space Station, only under our seas to learn more about the environment which encompasses seven-tenths of our planet’s surface.
June was a busy month for some of us Terseira retirees. Also extremely enlightening!
After our trip back to the states to visit family, friends, medical checkups, and, of course, the zillions of obligatory shopping adventures, we came back to Terciera. We flew through JFK instead of our usual Boston-Terceira flight (probably not our brightest adventure, appreciably more challenges going through New York instead of Boston:)) we flew in on the same plane with Lisa, a colleague I was stationed with in San Antonio and hadn’t seen in nearly 35 years. Lisa stayed with us a few days, visited Sao Miguel, and returned for some great times. I always try to maintain perspective while sitting in airports awaiting flights to Terceira; more courageous generatons spent months aboard sailing ships with great uncertainty while crossing the same ocean we’re concerned about after a one-hour plane delay:)
Just days after our return to the island with Lisa, we joined friends Molly and Jerry attending GLEX, the Explorers Club summit at Angra do Heroismo’s world-class Cutural Center for several days of presentations and networking about humanity’s future on planet Earth. Fabien Cousteau, Beatriz Flamini, and NASA Astronauts Nicole Mann and Mike Massimino, just to name a few of the dozens of contemporary leaders pushing boundaries in everything from fashion to sports to insect research.
One has to marvel at how our lives have changed, are changing, and undoubtedly will continue to change. Confusing, challenging, and downright scary sometimes, but I have often maintained that we each adapt and overcome through the strengths of our friends and family. Seeing family and friends, then being exposed to the GLEX subjects, I must be right!
Back home with our Azorean family, Mena invited us to join her XX aniversario dinner at the new Quinto do Azores restaraunt at Angra’s bay. Near perfect summer, surprise party and family fun with my sister in Michigan and then a birthday dinner for Sofia’s sister when we got home to the island:)
Tradtionally, most of our freinds on the island who were not born here take some time every summer or every other summer to return to their birth country to have fun with family and friends of days past. So this summer we took a break from beach time, bullfights, and festivals, to visit friends and family in Michigan, Virginia, DC, and Maryland. A tight, well-planned schedule led to some stressful, but totally enjoyable celebrations.
Especially since we moved back to the island, we have compartmentalized “family” with different periods in our history. Thirty-two years of marriage very happy marriage have given us a very generous history of different families: Our siblings and their extended families, our daughters and their wonderful families (Aidan, Summer, Gerry and Darcy, etc.), our Gazette family (Linda and Dan, Norm and Val, Rene and Mary), our BSEE family (Vince and Heide, Gino, Jolie and Veronica), old neighbors (Brett and Christine, Jim and Claudette, Rosa and Craig, etc.), our Falls Church family (Deb and Tessa) and many more too numerous to mention. I won’t even name the doctors and nurses, lab and radiology techs, etc.
Personally I’m convinced as we get along in the years, memories and mistakes in our history “change,” erode, become more brilliant, etc. But these trips back and forth to the island amplify the great friends and family we have made throughout our history. These trips home, I appreciate, are hectic, expensive, and sometimes challenging. But these visits, whether an hour, a day, or a week, makes us appreciate the people who make us what we are today.
And very few things compare to that feeling of getting home to your own bed, back to the beaches and bullfights, and our family and freinds on Terceira!
Visiting family and friends back in Michigan for the first time in six years, we had a wonderful visit; my older sister’s 70th birthday surprise party. She was surprised, and we had a great time in Ludington on Lake Michigan. The beach was beautiful sand, the SS Badger ferry appeared from a fog bank, and Lake Michigan was not as cold as the Atlantic by our house in Terceira:)
We stopped by many old friends, had some great dinners and drinks, and regretfully, didn’t have time to visit many old friends. We did see whitetail deer, sand dunes, go for a couple of boat rides on “the big lake” and saw all my brothers and sisters, which was great. (Yes, I did notice they are aging…but not me!!!:) They are still wonderful, somewhat quirky, and we love all of them!
This trip was highlighted by meeting new family as well, future inlaws, wedding dress shopping, and… oh yes, drinking Michigan Cherry-flavored coffee and testing pies and cookies. I had my first experience with American Spoon Bloody Marys made with horseradish vodka. Yum!
As always, we miss home life on the island, regret not having enough time to visit so many great friends and family, and spending more time with others. But that is one price we pay for our life as ex-pats on Terceira. Make the best of whatever you’re living, and enjoy it all.
Denis (left) and Lenka joined us for dinner amidst seasonal downpours and wind storms. Filet do Abrotea and many other “nummies” capped of an evening of fun and learning for all of us before Denis and Lenka return to Prague for more oral exams at medical school — we know they will do great! (photo by Denis)
This summer we added another wonderful couple to our list of fantastic friends, and when they returned for another study internship at the hospital in Angra do Heroismo, they made time for a nice dinner at Casa da Sonho.
Lenka Duranikova and her finace, Denis Dinga, have attended several medical school study opportunities from their program in Prague. Friendly, naturally curious, warm residents of the Czech Republic, they enjoy visiting the island, where we are honored to rank among their many friends here. Teresa Hill introduced us one day at a festival in Biscoitos, while my cousin Mike and Cindy were visiting. We’ve had fun ever since:)
The Azores is referred to by many as the “Gateway to Europe” and because it is also a growing tourist destination, every festival, bullfight, concert, and day at the beach offers us opportunities to meet folks from many other locations. Without doubt, this is one of the things we love and cherish most…meeting new folks and getting to know them and their culture.
A wonderful dinner last night also reinforced my mantra, “Even challenging weather brings something to enjoy.” Our future doctors may not get back to the island soon, but we may get the chance to visit tehm, and we’ll stay in touch!
Any day now…we’re hoping to have the weather break and enjoy spring break on Terceira. No cops, very few naked bodies, never enough drinking, and pure relaxation!!!
The weather has been interresting around the world this winter, adn we’ve watched it very closely. During breakfast most days we watch variously weather in French, German, English, and Portuguese. We also look out our windows, a mountain top on one side, an ocean on the other. It’s always good to see what the experts expect, good to know how to plan our day, and always with the knowledge that what we’re seeing at breakfast probably will not hold throughout the day throughout the island:)
But astrological spring is coming quickly, and we’re getting ready. The tradition in my youth in the midwest was “spring cleaning” when you KNEW you were going to be called on to help clean those hard to reach places, under the dryer, the garage, etc. “Spring Cleaning” when you’ve married an Azorean means you do just about the same things you do every week…except you do it again every week, spring or not! Until the beach weather arrives in a month or so, in which case we can relax and only clean and cook half days, and then lay on the beach for a few hours.
Of course summer brings visitors, cookouts, picnics, camping, travel, suntans, and more yard and garden work. But most agree that’s when Terceira is inviting, relaxing, and beautiful. So when you come visit, don’t be too critical if the housekeeping isn’t as perfect as our normal spring cleaning, just check out our blood pressure and our tans:)
Christmas Card from a very dear friend in the states….it arrived on my birthday in early February. Mail from the U.S. is about two months for an air mail letter (Par Avion) with plenty of stamps…but they still take two months. Packages… we don’t even think about, some never make it! One time we got a new sewing machine from Italy in three days:)
My birthday is in early February, and on my birthday, my darling wife suggested she see if there were any birthday cards in the mailbox; we hadn’t heard the CTT Delivery man’s scooter stop, so I was skeptical. Mail for us is very rare. So she went out and I heard her laughing histerically from the mailbox.
Nearly two months late, we got a Christmas Card from a wonderful friend who still remembers some great times together while I was in the Air Force. Marleen worked with me and became a great friend in Arkansas, and we’ve stayed in touch over the years, even when she moved to her home in the Netherlands for a time. She is so wonderful! So I was very pleased to get her card and a photo newsletter summarizing her year. It’s been years since we’ve seen her, but we still fondly remember each other. Things like this make me feel really “warm and fuzzy!”
But that brings up one of the critiical questions friends from around the globe ask me about our decision to retire to the Portuguese Azores. Many things defy understanding, explanation, or indeed, reason here. Why it takes nearly two months for an Air Mail letter to arrrive from the states? Isn’t the Portuguese system Socialist? Is the island of Terceira run by their own version of a mafia? All possible considerations. In defferenece to family and freinds, I refrain from commenting.
Some things I don’t try to explain, I just accept; much to my wonderful bride’s joy. Her culture is different. Portugal, until 1978, was ruled by a dictator named Antonio de Oliveira Salazar. That’s less than one generation ago, many remember “the old days” which were vastly different from my experieinces growing up in the US and eventually becoming part of the federal government. I can’t relate to the stories my wife and her family tell about growing up in schools and local governments controlled by a dictator. So I try to not judge how this culture reacts to government decisions, procedures, and such things. Like many ex-pats, I sometimes have to bite my tongue and not compare my adopted residence to cultures I’ve lived in around the world. Sometimes, I bite my tongue till it hurts:)
So you have to balance the warmth of neighbors supporting us, accepting us into their families, beautiful scenery, great wine, good prices, etc., and try to decide when some things should be accepted, some suggestion might help, or just bite your tongue.
Then again, every now and again, you get a wonderful surprise letter or card from a dear friend!
Remembering warm and sunny days with Rosa and Craig in Sintra, Portugal. Just an hour out of Lisbon, we took the train up, had some great tours, walked a lot, and got home in time for a great Italian meal. Seems like there is not really an end to the neat places to visit in Portugal.
So it’s January in Terceira. Clouds hiding the tops of mountains around us. Fog and rain hiding the bay, the beaches, the ocean, and the cows, we see from our warm, wind-battered casa. Walks are curtailed, trees bend constantly, and the neighborhood smells of the wood burning in our stove. We watch more news on TV, old movies and new, and of course nibble on local cheese, bread, sweets, and coffee or tea. Of course we watch with jealousy the newscasts from the states of snow storms, violent winds, and rain throughout the states.
A tranquil new year also allows us to reasses some things which we normally don’t take time to think about. From the blogging perspective, one or two readers point out that my blog mentions many of the great elements of retiring into the Portuguese Azores, but seems to rarely highlight some of the singificant challenges. So I’m going to work on that in the next year…there are some down sides to coming here from the United States, and “fair and balanced reporting” should mention them as well. So I’m turning over that new leaf.
Arguably the best part of the “nasty weather” which I love here is that we get plenty of time to review the year; the great trips to Romania, Lisbon, Sao Miguel, and the fantastic friends we’ve made, visited, reunited with, and discussed plans for further meetings and adventures. Sorting photos, sending them, smiling, and reminiscing make for enjoyable evenings as the rain and winds pound. Good times abound!
In all fairness, each trip or visit also had some “challenging” aspects, and remembering those also bring smiles. For example, the trip to Lisbon and Sintra with Craig and Rosa was fun and educational…but mainland Portugal set records for hot days and nights. So as we smile about the castles and palaces like the photo above, we also appreciate the winds, rain, and clouds in Terceira in January:)
So we recall them as we’re scheduling our next year’s travels!
This year Christmas was slightly more challenging for us, our first Christmas away from our youngest daughter and, sadly, yet another away from our distant eldest daughter. So with Christmas carols playing, many family dinners, lunches, and several coffees and drinking with our close ex-pat friends, we celebrated quietly.
We retirees in the middle of the Atlantic often celebrate with a very short Christmas list…we largely have amassed just about everything we need to enjoy life here. Friends dropped off team, chocolates from Belgium, and of course, no holiday is complete without massive baking undertakings in the kitchen.
Friends and family around the world, through holiday communications, ask what we’re doing for the holidays. Simple:
We have traded crowds and mall shopping-madness for peace and simplicity. No major crowds (except the grocery store).
While we miss family and friends of the last 30 years in the U.S., we celebrate the love and company of family here, with friends from Sweden, Norway, mainland, the nearby island of Sao Miguel, and the U.S. who now live or visit here. (I learned decades ago while living around the globe to enjoy every minute with friends and family, enjoy memories, communicate often, and be thankful for said friends and family). I know there is never enough time together, so cherish what you have and be thankful for it.
We take the excuse to increase our process to check in on more distant family, freinds who have good news and sad, and to “touch base” with old and new relationships.
So if you wonder what retired holiday life is like on Terceira, it is exactly what you would expect. Some frustrations, some challenges, but mostly peace and tranquility. We watch the world news with some trepidation and some joy … while the world seems to have significant challenges from mankind, our little piece of the world is largely quiet, with Christmas lights, Christmas carols, coffee, tea, and holiday spirit(s).
Merry Christmas and Happy New Year wherever you are. Enjoy!
No photos lately, mostly just fog, clouds, rain, high winds (23-40 knots) and visiblity barely 30 meters (a hundred yards) from the house:)
So as winter weather sets in, I’ve returned to my youth. Very Very young. Brothers and sisters and I watched the Ed Sullivan Show every Sunday on an old Black and White Zenith with two knobs and rabbit-ears antenna covered with tin foil! Now, I’m clustered into our comfortable place on Terceira (which I could not have found on a globe then!) and watching a Carol Burnett-hosted tribute to Ed. This leads me to smiles, sing-alongs, cringes about black and white TV, and fond memories of my very young family life in Ada, Michigan. Also leads to missing my dear brother and sisters:)
Remembering the Ed Sullivan Show does indeed seem like a simpler time, which kind of equates to some solationism on Terceira. the warden and I choose to watch news, debate many questions (I love my wife dearly, but she’s often wrong:)) and we can just turn off news from Europe, the US, Israel, Gaza, Germany, France, and tune in to YouTube memories. The memories, peace, and tranquility don’t last forever (neither of us are isolationists) but it does lead to fond memories, hours in front of the wood fire, and pleasant stories of our different youths.
So life here isn’t all bad, thanks to YouTube, Ed Sullivan, and many many others. We’re getting ready for winter:)
Breakfast recently looking out over our normally tranquil view of Praia Bay…billowing smoke plume reminiscent of a bomb attack on a neighborhood in some parts of the world I’ve lived in…but not!
Several weeks ago, before we started traveling to different islands for fun, we sat down to breakfast. Usual procedures, good morning kiss, feed the doggone cats, Sao Miguel cheese, toast, jam, and coffee. Then we turn on YouTube for last evening’s news. We listen to the US newscast, discuss the world’s situation, solve the problems of the world, and look out over our peaceful view of Praia Bay and the nearby Marina.
“Holy Smokes, darling. Look at this!”
About a mile in the distance, smoke rose over the Marina, blue lights and red lights flashed, and a plume of smoke drifted at least a kilometer toward the airbase and airport. The ever-present Steiner binoculars I’ve had for years came up immediately, and we determined it was a boat aflame. Naturally, like most of the folks around the bay, we jumped into the car and drove across town to the marina (about one mile), where we saw several U.S. A.F. and Bombeiros do Praia trucks putting out the flames on a huge cabin cruiser (I would estimate about 70-foot) that had been tied up for many many many years.The rumors were that it had been siezed by the Portuguese government for taxes, drugs, who knows, etc.
It now sat in the shallow marina, still tied to the dock, mostly submerged and covered in foam, ashes; basically a sunken wreck. Rumors abound. Not sure what “really” happened because part of the Portuguese culture seems to be not explaining everything.
Keep in mind that Terceira is an island of serenity, tranquility, peacefulness, and basic pleasantness. This appeals to many American and Canadian ex-pats. I, for one, have many family members in the US who are amazed that I have adapted to this serenity. But every now and again, we have excitement!!! Of course, after our cursory investigation, it was time to go home, wash dishes, and make lunch:)
Still wondering, of course, if, after all these years, the boat had insurance:)
View of the Moorish Castle in Sintra, about 45 minutes north of Lisbon by train. After the Moors were defeated, Sintra became popular with castles and quintas for royalty and nobility in Portugal. The castle remains to remind the Portuguese of what the Moors added and the many years of battles to make the Portuguese a unified nation.
Sometimes we get a little bored with the same old “drudgery” of beaches, swimming, festivals, dinners with neighbors, etc. That’s when it’s really awesome when old friends from Michigan stop in for a visit. We love showing off Lisboa (never a bad day in Lisbon) and then relaxing in our little corner of paradise.
We met at the airport in Lisboa, stayed at a friend’s place, and spent a week sightseeing, including a great day trip to Sintra, visiting several castles and the famous Quinta da Regaleira with it’s gardens and amazing circular staircase hundreds of feet underground, built to initiate candidates into the Masons. In spite of soaring temperatures, a wonderful trip with many other sights for future visits!
After a week of heat, adventures, and stops around Lisbon, we all returned to our Casa da Sonho, dodged raindrops, and visited sights, gardens, beaches, volcanoes and trails, and restaraunts we frequent here. Heavy rains dampened the grass, turned everything green but did not “harsh” our reunion. We had several sunny hours to visit the caves and volcanic crater ridges. All around a great time before we hugged goodbye; as we parted we thought of their return to Michigan in mid-October; fall colors, crisp temperatures, cider and donuts, and preparing for snowfall.
Never certain when we’ll return to Michigan for a visit, but so wonderful to have freinds come over and experinece our life here!
The ‘hood grew last week in Porto Martins as our neighbor’s newborn, Amelia, was baptized and a new priest arrived to shepard the Porto Martins Catholics.
Nearly eveyone agrees life on Terceira is tranquil, relaxed, and friendly. When asked why we retired here, the first answer is usually “to be near Sofia’s family” or “because the people here are so great.” The tale of how we found an overgrown plot of land across from her sister’s new house, turned it into a wonderful home with a great view of the ocean, and grew to love our new neighbors is a major success story. We look out the window, watch news of the world, and hug each other!
How do we guage acceptance and freindliness? This year one neighbor invited us to his Esprit do Santos celebration, a week of friends, feast, drink, and meeting his friends and family. This past week, another neighbor invited us to his daughter’s baptism, a celebration and feast for the first of many sacrements for this darling little infant. Also noteworthy was this gathering at our little (tightly-packed) church built in 1901 was the arrival of a new priest, a man stretched with sheparding over Praia Da Vitoria and several other churches besides Porto Martin.
Many who know me know I’m not Catholic, not practicing very much, etc. (One friend, a pastor in Michigan, always quips “the church wasn’t hit by lightning when you walked in?”) So I maintain it’s not the practice of faith as much as the tremendous community feeling here. As neighbors drive by, they wave, invite us to family events, and ask how we’re doing. To a guy who lived in apartments where we never saw our neighbors, that feeling is very inspiring. Kind of refreshes our view of humanity.
Not a big deal in the balance of the world today, but reinforces our continual happiness of retiring into a little Portuguese village!
Not normally a fan of “selfies,” but the friendly crowd and cool evening breeze during PraiaFest’s Antique Car Parade seemed to require a photo image of the moment. About 5,000 folks (my estimate, never an easy thing to do) surrounded us as we sampled food, bands, and drink; greeting many friends and neighbors.
Maybe I’m a slow learner, maybe I just needed the ‘right’ incentive, or maybe I’m getting more acclimated to life on Terceira, but this year the annual Praia Festival has been so enjoyable. Sofia and I venture out many evenings (some we just listen from our veranda) to enjoy the people, planned events, captivating array of foods and drinks, and enjoy music and dancing. (All right, in all honesty, you who know me know I don’t dance, but i sway with familiar music😎)
For nearly 30 years, we have returned from our stateside lives to visit family and celebrate our anniversary in August. I have never totally embraced the crowds, loud music, and the efforts to meet folks who remember us but I don’t always remember them; and then share a drink or beer and try to discuss life over the crowd noise and music. I’m just not good at it.
I’m improving with age. My magnificent wife and translator has worked out signals and introductions to help me remember who is greeting us, how they know us, and sometimes I even get a quick intel breif on their family; if they knew me when I was stationed here, were they at our wedding, did they help us design or build the house, or do we hike with them on many of the islands trails through volcanos and fields. I’m getting better at shaking hands, smiling, and greeting women with the familiar Portguese greeting of kissing both cheeks. I’m improving. Slowly, but improving.
My analysis is predicated on the fun I’m having. Spending time with the warden, walking, talking, reminiscening — ah, forget it, the spell checker isn’t helping, let’s go with “remembering” — is very relaxing, comforting, and falls into the category of enjoying my reitrment years! When in the Azores, enjoy the festivals!
Cut the grass, clean up, beach, and spend the evening listening to Nuno Bettercourt and most of the family play in the square…wait, what?
Not sure how this link will work, but…
It always starts with…”Honey, if you want to, we can go watch this concert tonight…” My response is always the same, with some hesitation, “yes dear, if you want to.” “Rui and Cesar are saving us seats…”
It was just another day in paradise… breakfast, mow the grass, make the bed, you know, the usual. Hot day here, so we had a fantastic lunch, then headed to the beach, baked and slept and swam for the afternoon, came home to dinner, and then headed out for Praia da Vitoria. True friends had saved us a nice table in the small plaza where, just the day before, Cousin Mike and Cindy had sat, looking out the sea, watching some guys run power cables and lights from the nearby Ramo Grande auditorium across the street. I explained Praia Festivals were coming in a week or two.
“The band is supposed to start about 8 p.m.” In island time, expect about 10 p.m. Sitting and drinking beer, met a couple of new friends from Callfornia here for the festivals, and an a visit to the table from from Luis Bettencourt, in charge of the concert and raising money for the Praia da Vitoria Philharmonika band. Very nice guy; someone said he’s an awesome guitar player. OK. Seemed like a nice guy and a good cause, very well organized. Just running late. Sold more beer and sangria.
Band settles in about 10. Not a troop to the stage, Luis calls his band members from the bar, family gatherings, beach, etc. Finally everyone settles into the small stage and the rock and roll starts. Great tunes from CCR, Beatles, Elvis, etc. Fabulous vocals, jokes, forgotten words, more jokes, fun emanating from every mike! Awesome. My sister in law and her friend Paula dancing by the stage, trying to hail Sofia to join them. Crowd grows much larger; we’re darned glad we have seats:) Music was loud, not unbearable. Overall a fantastic time. Another group of musicians join the stage, again, members of the local Familia Bettercourt. Nuno on drums. Luis on guitar. Great sounds. Sisters singing and dancing. (cmoore, I often thought about you…I think you would have loved the music and the great guitar work!!!)
Sofia says in my ear…drummer is Nuno Bettencourt. That’s nice. I’ve heard the name, he’s from Praia. I didn’t realize he’s Rock and Roll Royalty, and basically comes back to Praia for the festivals and a family reunion most years. I seem him playing drums, joking with family on the mike, and then later he’s helping a cute little blond child dance to the music behind the stage.
I was never a fan of concerts, but this ranked as one of the best nights I can remember since moving here. As the warden pointed out, I knew the words to almost every song they played. We hugged and moved in our seats (never got the sisters together dancing, but I tried!) No one complained about my English or Portugeuse or German, I didn’t even get through the crowd to have too many drinks. I did bump into my neighbors, Eduardo my best man, and other ex-pats and folks. Just pure fun with family and friends. I’m certain Nuno and his family also had fun with family and friends.
So as we’re driving home in the wee hours, Sofia reiterates…”That’s what festivals on the island are all about…fun times with family and friends!”
OceanEmotion’s guide Jao explains to Mike and Cindy more about the dolphins and whales we saw touring around Angra do Heroismo. Cousin Mike and Cindy spent a wonderful week with us before returning to their home in Texas. They agreed the swimming and sunny days were much cooler than Texas:) **Note, Sofia did not join us on the boat…no surprise, right:)
Cousin Mike, my oldest cousin, came for a visit, the first family we’ve hosted from stateside. We all felt the visit was a great success, gave us a chance to visit after many years apart, and see how they were doing and show how our retirement life is on Terceira.
Growing up, Mike was a strong influence on my education; cars, guns, mechanical innovation, attitude, etc. So it was facinating to see how were similar and disimilar as we’ve aged, learned about family we’ve not seen in years, and compare memories of youth, aunts and uncles, grandmothers, and days of misspent youth (his was misspent….I was a perfect angel! :))
As we’ve distanced ourselves from my family in retirement, it’s refreshing and rewarding to get these visits for several reasons. Reminiscing and catching up is a laugh riot! It forces us shift slightly out of our comfort zone; months of the same lifestyle makes for some stagnant habits, which are useful to break on occasion. Even different breakfast schedules, new broadcast preferences, even lanugage preferences … flexibility is necessary to enjoy, adjust, and evolve. We are loving such things more and more.
Some things are not easy. Changing habits and lifestyle take some effort, and all efforts require some balance. Fortunately, with family and close freinds, the effort always pays off, and the end result is a tighter group, and I beleive family and good friends deserve such effort. Like most things which require effort, the end result is worth it.
Thanks for visiting, Mike and Cindy. I know it’s not easy to travel from Texas to Terceira and back, and we know it was worth it for us. Hopefully it was also worth it to you guys:)
guide and Cindy and Mike aboard Ocean Emotion whale watching boat
